Showing posts with label Québécois. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Québécois. Show all posts

Thursday, October 11, 2012

Cabane aux Pommes Au Pied de Cochon (Mirabel, QC)

11382 Rang de la Fresnière
St-Benoît de Mirabel, Québec
450.258.1732
website

While there is a huge backlog of food posts (short trip to Saskatchewan, long trip to Hawaii, and regular eating in Montréal), I am breaking the chronological order of posts to write about our recent visit to Cabane à sucre Au Pied de Cochon for their autumnal apple menu 'Tombe dans les pommes'. I thought a timely post was in order as the PDC site advertises there are tables available on Thursdays at 5:30 PM and 6 PM. So if you're interested, reserve RIGHT NOW! 

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Cabane à Sucre Au Pied De Cochon.

After reading about the first edition of Cabane aux Pommes on Shut up and eat, Elle was able to snag us a table on a Friday evening (we were also lucky enough to enjoy the sugar shack meal earlier in the year). Joining us for the fall feast were her hubbie D and our friend MJ.

We got there early and decided to walk up a trail to see the maple trees that produced the syrup we enjoyed earlier in the year. As we waited for a tractor to come down the trail, D pointed out that Martin Picard himself was driving the tractor. WHAAAT? Not only was he there, but actually doing work! (Personally, I'm on a roll with celebrity chefs appearing at restaurants recently. The other one involves an Iron Chef and will be coming up once I write my posts on Hawaii!)

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Pumpkin patch in front of the Cabane.

Our group of four was seated with a group of 5, who seemed to already have demolished a jar of cornichons at the table. If we weren't so last minute, it would be really fun to organize a group of 10 to go to the cabane, and slightly less awkward.

To start out with, the girls ordered the specialty apple drinks while D preferred his beer. MJ and Elle ordered the apple slush made up of crushed ice, apple juice and spiced rum. They loved their sweetly spiced drink. I ordered the apple martini and it was way too strong for a lightweight like me.

The first set of dishes meant as starters quickly came out: la tête fromagée, squash soup and sheep yogurt. The now infamous tête fromagée was topped with head cheese and underneath it were two charcuterie maison, made with locally sourced pork: jambon vieilli similar to prosciutto and a bacon like one from the pork belly. The charcuterie was even better accompanyied by the apple mustard, the replenished cornichons, the homemade pickled eggplans and corn relish. I have a complete obsession with homemade pickles now!

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 Tête fromagée.

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Assorted pickles.

One of our favourites of the night was the squash soup gratin with Gruyère and Emmenthal cheese, apple slices and topped with amaretti cookies. We were encouraged to add olive oil to our own bowls. The savouriness from the cheeses, the sweetness from the squash and the unexpected crunch from the amaretti worked so, so well together we couldn't get enough. I had a tiny second helping, even though I knew I would pay for it later.

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Squash Soup.

Lastly came the caillé de brebis avec miel en rayon, brunoise de pommes, copeaux de terrine de foie gras et salade de pousses - a sheep's yogurt with apple brunoise, flaked foie gras terrine topped with a honeycomb. It paired well with the freshly made bread. Every one at the table was in love with the bread, airy on the inside and crusty on the outside. The bread also made for a perfect vehicle for the homemade apple butter.

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Caillé de brebis.
 
As our group was small, we didn't get the show that is the pasta dish made in a large Parmesan wheel but we witnessed it numerous times at other neighbouring tables (including, I'm 85% sure, an old organic chemistry professor, Dr. Lysy?). The pasta, consisting of cavatelli and raviolis au foie de volailles liquide (liquified poultry liver), are added to the wheel, Parmesan cheese is grated in as seen below, sous vide foie gras is added to the pasta and mixed into the sauce.The pasta is then served in the omnipresent multicoloured Le Creuset pots.

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Pasta tossed in a Parmesan wheel.

The liver ravioli was meant to be eaten in one bite, with the molten liver exploding in your mouth, reminiscent of the foie gras cromesquis served at the restaurant Au Pied de Cochon. The sauce was sweetened with apple sauce and flavoured with rosemary. I made the mistake of going for a second ravioli, when one really was enough.
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 Cavatelli and liver ravioli, topped with foie gras.

The first main dish consisted of PDC's version of surf and turf. The surf consisted of warmed Malpeque oysters from PEI and the turf a beef shoulder with carrots, cepes mushrooms (we only found one!) and caramelized onions braised in white wine. The beef was fall of the bone tender.

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Surf n Turf.

The salmon en papillote was stuffed with apples, basil, onion, garlic and lemon. The accompanying sauce was made up of braised endives, buccin (sea snails), clams, bacon, potatoes, cider and cream, and was very reminiscent of a clam chowder. Boston lettuce leaves were served on the side, to make lettuce wrapped beef or salmon rolls, at the diner's desire.

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Salmon en papillote.

The final main, but definitely not the least, were eggplant pancakes with broccoli and hazelnut paste. The chef recommended topping an oyster with caramelized onions on the pancake. We unanimously loved this dish. It was very creative and unique, and the broccoli with hazelnut paste, similar to a peanut sauce, was completely addictive.

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Eggplant pancakes with hazelnut broccoli.

As we were taking respite from food before dessert, the chef himself Martin Picard started to work the room. He talked to the diners at the bar first, and then went from table to table to say hello. He even graciously took individual pictures with the people from the table behind us, which might have gotten an eyeroll from me. PEOPLE: if the chef is nice enough to take pictures with you, just take one or two and let him move on! We mentioned to him that we saw him riding his tractor and he replied that's when he's at his most relaxed. I also showed him I was wearing sweatshorts (that Elle nicely cropped off) to comfortably stuff myself and he said that was a very good strategy!

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With none other than Martin Picard.

Finally, when we didn't think we could eat much more, it was dessert time. Apple pie was served with marbled ice cream, consisting of apple sorbet and vanilla honey ice cream. A sticky toffee pudding, with a base of plums and apples, was cooked in and served from a can (like the duck in a can!). The pudding was then drizzled with a homemade caramel sauce.

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Apple pie, ice cream and toffee pudding.

The final dessert and final dish of the night, were soufflés with caramelized apples and chocolate ganache at the bottom. I could barely eat, so honestly only had a few bites but it was delicious. The soufflé itself was light and airy, and all that one would want from a soufflé.

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Apple soufflé.

Everyone enjoyed our meal at the first Cabane aux Pommes and thought the $50 was well worth it. From our experience with Cabane à Sucre, we brought our own Tupperware to bring leftover food home.

Having gone to both, Elle and I agreed that if we had to choose, we preferred the fall edition of the cabane. For this year anyway. For me, I think I liked the addition of produce (the pickles, the squash soup and broccoli). For a locally focused menu, it makes sense that there is more produce on hand in the fall compared to the winter. I have a feeling that Chef Martin would rock a vegetarian meal. Maybe when hell freezes over. Elle liked the more simple menu compared to the over-the-top items in the winter.

[We weren't the only bloggers who got to enjoy this feast. Read about it on Montreal Breakfast Review, This is Why We're Fat and the aforementioned Shut up and Eat.]

Sunday, March 18, 2012

Cabane à Sucre Au Pied de Cochon (Mirabel, QC)

11382 Rang de la Fresnière
St-Benoît de Mirabel, Québec
450.258.1732
website

One of the most sought after reservation is the limited run Cabane à Sucre (or sugar shack) by reknown Restaurant Au Pied de Cochon in Montréal. Reservations are available on December 1st and are usually filled on the same day. By winter time before they are ready to open, the restaurant contacts the first ones on the list to confirm reservations. As there are cancellations, they work their way down the waiting list of food enthusiasts. That is how I got my chance at Cabane à Sucre Au Pied de Cochon, when my friend MC was contacted and transferred her reservation to me. (Her friend was contacted a few weeks before, and she went with him, not taking a chance on whether she'd be eventually called or not).

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My sister Elle, our friend Em and I arrived at 6 pm sharp, as we were told not to be late as we were going to be sharing dishes, family style. People were already seated and some already eating, so I assume seating was slightly staggered. While the waiters took care of the other tables, it took us a while to get our drink order. Three drink choices were offered, and I picked the daiquiri à l'érable ($10), which was a great start to our maple syrup themed meal.

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We were seated at a table of 10. The group of 6 next to us had started getting their food, while we were grouped with another diner who came all the from Québec City for this feast. Please note at this point that this means all the food coming next were served for four people (and four not very big women at that!). We watched our neighbours enviously as they received their food; it seemed particularly cruel to make you wait for food when you can see and smell what others are eating.

Finally, the appetizers, all 3 of them, arrived.

The maki à l'esturgeon was made up of nori, topped with rice, fried sturgeon, a (maple?) sauce and gold flecked oreilles de crisse (a cabane à sucre standard). I'm not sure the gold leaf stood out while we ate, but it sure looks nice in pictures! Elle and I really enjoyed this dish, but I tried to limit myself to one square, as I knew much more food was coming.

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The next appetizer consisted of a large dish of house terrine of creton (made up of offal, sweetbread, boudin, tongue), an endive salad and buckwheat crêpes. The crêpe eaten with a goat cream cheese and a bit of creton was really good. Admittedly, while I like the idea of not wasting any meat and eating nose to tail, I was not too keen on the mysterious pieces of meat in the terrine and preferred the goat cream cheese. The endive salad was a good accompaniment to the fatty terrine.

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The last appetizer was hareng fumé (smoked herring) on top of very thinly sliced potatoes, served with pickled onions. The potatoes were very good but the herring was a bit too fishy for my taste.

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Next came the omelette soufflée à l'homard (lobster omelette) presented in typical Au Pied de Cochon style; the omelette was covered with in-house smoked meat and a lobster shell. Pieces of lobster were strewn throughout the fluffy omelette. We had read a recent blog post about asking for containers to take home, and cut out omelette pieces that made for perfect breakfast the following day.

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Next up was the very decadent foie gras vol-au-vent, and because foie gras isn't sufficient, the puff pasty was also stuffed with Victor et Berthold Brie cheese, a béchamel sauce, leeks and ham. When we sliced into it, a messy combination of Brie and foie gras oozed out. To balance the fattiness, the vol-au-vent was topped with watercress and apple slices - and the another fatty layer of oreilles de crisse. I really liked the apple slices and watercress combined with the fatty fillings. One very small slice of vol-au-vent went a long way.

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Since tables were at various stages of the meal, we got previews of what was to come. One very impressive dish (again in very typical PDC fashion) was the braised duck, topped with onion rings and dramatically stabbed through with a knife. The duck was served with a complete addictive parsnip purée. Elle had the deft hands to cut the duck into four beautiful portions, and it was absolutely one of my favourite dishes of the night.

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Accompanying the braised duck, was a plate of pork flank and pork butt (well, porcelet, which translates to baby pork), served with cabbage dressed with maple, and a strong Dijon mustard. At this point in the meal, we were getting ridiculously stuffed so sliced a piece of pork 3 ways. The pork was perfectly cooked and I wish there was more cabbage to enjoy - but vegetables are definitely not served in excess at a PDC meal.

Again, it bears repeating that all this food was served for four people only!!! We packed up the rest to go.

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The two meat dishes were served with another cabane à sucre standard, fèves au lard (baked beans). With a twist to the traditional, braised duck thighs were cooked with the beans and topped with ricotta. Note that the Creuset pot was quite large and filled with beans. Our fourth dining companion was not interested in beans at all, and we only ate a little as we were also stuffed. While I did bring some home and it made quite a good lunch, I did have to wonder if this amount of beans at each table was wasted (yes, I can't believe I'm complaining that there's too much food).

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While we were all satiated, we also knew that the best part of cabane à sucre was coming: dessert! Not just desserts, but dessert doused in maple syrup. The main dessert was a maple sundae, with tire à l'érable stuck in. If you've never gone to a sugar shack, tire à l'érable is traditionally the last treat after the meal. This was my favourite as a child. It is served outside where there are wooden stands filled with snow. A person comes out with molten maple syrup and pours it onto the snow. Every person is provided with a stick, and you have to wrap your stick with the syrup that is starting to slightly  harden.  The syrup is sweet, hot and still fluid so if you don't eat it quickly enough, it will fall off of your stick. For someone who doesn't love sweet things, I would always go for seconds as I knew this was only an annual treat.

The maple ice cream was so good, and had pieces of homemade chocolate candy. Surrounding the sundae were maple éclairs, maple barbe à papa (the French term for cotton candy meaning dad's beard) and little cones stuffed with homemade maple marshmallow. There were also two very large danoises au beurre d'érable (maple butter Danish) that were packed home.

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Saving the best for last, my favourite dessert were crêpes fried in duck fat, doused in maple syrup. I wondered with my sister how the duck fat made the crêpes better. At a higher frying temperature, the duck fat made the crêpes ultra crispy and deceivingly light. It did not matter how full I was, I could have eaten much more of this!

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As my friend MC, who visited a few weeks prior, commented, abundance was the theme of the night. I could add excess and decadence to that. No doubt the food was very good and you definitely got your money's worth. I just wouldn't have necessarily picked all the dishes served but it's a good way of trying new things. I also think that such an abundance of food encourages waste, which I dislike.

We were a bit disappointed by the service too. It was a full house, and the waiters were understandably busy. However, we did wait very long for our food at the beginning, and for dessert at the end, when the second seating started to arrive. In addition, we had ordered half a tourtière that never came, even though we asked about it a few times. While we didn't need more food, we really wanted to try PDC's spin on another Québécois classic, and would have taken some home. When we mentioned this to our main server at the end of the meal, she didn't even really apologize for forgetting it, and just shrugged it off, saying a mistake must have happened in the kitchen.

All in all though we were happy to have gotten a chance to enjoy this special meal. At $57 per person, I don't think I would go every year but you definitely get fed what you pay. It's a great way to experience a cabane à sucre meal with a PDC twist. The meats (pork and duck) and desserts were definitely the highlights for me.

There was still some availability this season when they called me, so it's worth e-mailing if you're interested this year (they do take a bit of time to get back to you). They also mentioned that it's easier to seat a party of two, as you can sit at the bar. If not this year then remember to reserve early for next year's cabane à sucre Au Pied de Cochon.

Other 2012 Cabane à Sucre PDC posts:
* Foodie Date Night
* La Clique du Plateau
* Montcarte

Cabane à sucre Au Pied de Cochon on Urbanspoon

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Pâté Chinois & Shepherd's Pie

It seems a lot of my friends are having babies these days. On my day off, I decided to offer my friend S to bring over dinner for her and her husband. I gave her a choice between chicken pot pie and pâté chinois. S decided on pâté chinois since she had pot pie recently. Another couple had a baby a day before S and I figured I'd kill two birds with one stone and offered to bring over shepherd's pie as well!

So what's the difference between pâté chinois and shepherd's pie? Well, I only realized there was a difference while watching Top Chef (definitely one of my favourite shows right now!). In Québec, we use the terms interchangeably for pâté chinois. Pâté chinois is a Québécois dish typically containing ground beef, corn (or cream of corn) and mashed potatoes, and served with ketchup. Shepherd's pie is an English version, made with lamb, and definitely with no corn. There are other variations, including hachis parmentier, a French version. While I knew that S's mother is Québécoise and would expect corn, I wasn't sure about what my other friends would expect in shepherd's pie so I decided to make both versions.

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Shepherd's pie.

Pâté Chinois & Shepherd's Pie - Serves 3-4

While I made two pies, I will only include quantities for one. You can pick whether you want to go the Québécois or English way.

Meat Mixture
I actually added some lean ground chicken to make this dish a bit healthier. Any combination of ground meat can be used. I used the same meat mixture for both pies and divided it in two.

* oil
* 1-2 garlic cloves, minced
* 1 onion, chopped finely
* 500 g (1 lb) ground meat
* salt, to taste
* freshly ground black pepper, to taste
* 3-4 fresh sprigs of thyme
* 1 sprig of rosemary
* ½ cup of red wine
* 1-2 tbsp tomato paste.

Heat up oil in a large skillet.
Add the onion and garlic, and cook until softened.
Add the meat, and break apart while cooking it.
Season with salt, pepper, thyme and rosemary.
Add the red wine and mix in the tomato paste.
Cook until the wine has evaporated.

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Adding the vegetables

For the pâté chinois:
I used corn that I had frozen during the summer. I stir fried it with some green onion and seasoned it with salt and pepper. You could just use canned corn or cream of corn if you prefer.
Cover the bottom of a 9"x9" square baking dish with the meat mixture.

Top with the corn.

For the shepherd's pie:
I added one carrot, cut into small cubes and some frozen peas into the meat mixture.
Cook the meat and vegetable mixture until the carrots are tender.
Cover the bottom of a 9"x9" square baking dish with the meat mixture.

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The base for pâté chinois and shepherd's pie respectively.

Mashed potato
Again, I don't have exact quantities, I just eyed it and tried to aim for a consistency I liked.

* 4-5 good sized potatoes (it should cover the meat and vegetables - although my friend S said she liked my meat to potato ratio, so don't make too much potato!)
* 1-2 tbsp butter
* 1-2 tbsp olive oil
* 1/3 cup Parmesan, optional
* salt and pepper
* milk
* 1 tbsp melted butter

Cook potatoes and peel them.
While hot, mash the potatoes.
Add butter and Parmesan (so they melt!).
Add milk if the mixture is too thick.
Add the olive oil, salt and pepper.
Adjust the seasoning and consistency to your tastes.
Cover the meat and vegetables with the potato mixture and spread evenly.
Go through the surface of the mashed potato with a fork, creating grooves.
Brush the grooves with melted butter, so it browns nicely.
Bake in the oven for 30 min at 350F. (At this point, all the ingredients are cooked, so you're just heating the pie up.)
Broil on high for 5 minutes if you want it nicely browned. (Use the time because it can burn quickly or use the low setting instead!)
Tada!

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Mashing the potatoes.

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Add potatoes to both pies.

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I really like making the grooves with a fork!

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Pâté Chinois.